Tag: troubleshooting

Sometimes your hotend gets damaged or worn out and you need to put a new one on. Other times, you just want to upgrade. The following is what you will need.

  • A new hotend compatible with your printer model
  • A screwdriver
  • A wrench
  • A pair of pliers
  • A heat-resistant glove
  • A piece of paper or cloth

Step 1: Turn off and unplug your printer. Wait for the hotend to cool down completely before touching it. You can use a heat-resistant glove to protect your hand from burns.

Step 2: Remove the filament from the extruder. You can either pull it out manually or use the unload filament function on your printer’s menu.

Step 3: Loosen the screws that secure the fan and the heat sink to the extruder assembly. Carefully remove them and set them aside.

Step 4: Unscrew the nozzle from the heater block using a wrench. Be careful not to damage the threads or the thermistor wires. You can discard the old nozzle or clean it for future use.

Step 5: Unscrew the heat break from the heater block using a pair of pliers. Be careful not to damage the heater cartridge or the thermistor wires. You can discard the old heat break or clean it for future use.

Step 6: Insert the new heat break into the new heater block and tighten it with a pair of pliers. Make sure there is no gap between them.

Step 7: Insert the new nozzle into the new heater block and tighten it with a wrench. Make sure there is no gap between them.

Step 8: Attach the new heater block to the extruder assembly using the screws that came with it. Make sure the thermistor wires and the heater cartridge wires are connected properly.

Before you reassemble your hotend, take a look at all of the components and make sure that they are in good working order, the connectors are tight, and that there are no components that show excessive wear.

Step 9: Attach the fan and the heat sink to the extruder assembly using the screws that you removed earlier. Make sure they are aligned correctly and do not obstruct the airflow.

Step 10: Load some filament into the extruder and turn on your printer. Set the temperature to about 200°C and wait for the hotend to heat up.

Step 11: Extrude some filament onto a piece of paper or cloth to check for any leaks or clogs. If everything looks fine, you have successfully exchanged your hotend!

Some symptoms of a failed extruder are:

  • Poor layer adhesion: The layers of your print are not sticking together well, resulting in gaps, cracks, or weak spots.
  • Inconsistent extrusion: The width of your extruded filament varies along the print, causing blobs, strings, or gaps.
  • Missing layers: Some layers of your print are completely missing or very thin, creating holes or gaps in your model.
  • Rough surface: The surface of your print is rough or uneven, with bumps, ridges, or zits.
  • No extrusion: The extruder stops pushing filament through the nozzle, resulting in an incomplete or empty print.

Some symptoms of a clogged PTFE tube are:

  • Poor layer adhesion: The layers of your print are not sticking together well, resulting in gaps, cracks, or weak spots.
  • Inconsistent extrusion: The width of your extruded filament varies along the print, causing blobs, strings, or gaps.
  • Missing layers: Some layers of your print are completely missing or very thin, creating holes or gaps in your model.
  • Rough surface: The surface of your print is rough or uneven, with bumps, ridges, or zits.
  • No extrusion: The extruder stops pushing filament through the nozzle, resulting in an incomplete or empty print.

Some symptoms of a failure at the hotend are:

  • Poor layer adhesion: The layers of your print are not sticking together well, resulting in gaps, cracks, or weak spots.
  • Inconsistent extrusion: The width of your extruded filament varies along the print, causing blobs, strings, or gaps.
  • Missing layers: Some layers of your print are completely missing or very thin, creating holes or gaps in your model.
  • Rough surface: The surface of your print is rough or uneven, with bumps, ridges, or zits.
  • No extrusion: The extruder stops pushing filament through the nozzle, resulting in an incomplete or empty print.

So, how do you tell where the problem is? When diagnosing, I take everything apart. Decouple the Bowden tube from the extruder and see if it works properly. Take the nozzle and heat break out of the printhead and see if you can push some filament through manually. Put a length of filament through the PTFE tube manually. The best and quickest way to find and resolve the issue is to slow down and be thorough with your investigation. Otherwise, I know from experience that you can waste a lot of time and money on replacing the wrong parts.

Have you ever gone through your entire calibration of your machine, only to shut it down for the day and have everything messed up when you start it up the next day? Have you ever leveled your bed, only to run a test part and find that everything comes out as a goopy mess? I spent a very long and frustrating weekend doing exactly this.

I would calibrate it and think “ok, now I’ve got it.” Nope, now I’ve got heat creep. Swap out the nozzle. Ok, now I’ve got it. Nope, now my extruder is underextruding. WHAT IS GOING ON?

When you have this, check your connections. In my case, the connector for my part cooling fan was loose and the fan wouldn’t always run. The results of not having a part fan can cause heat creep and poor adhesion. My filament wasn’t being cooled and so it would just get pushed around by the next layer that was supposed to adhere to it.

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: your nozzle seems to be clogged and no filament comes out. You try to clean it, replace it, or even upgrade it, but nothing works. What is going on?

The answer may surprise you: your nozzle may not be clogged at all, but rather your temperature may be too low. How can this happen? Let me explain.

When you print with a 3D printer, you need to heat up the filament to a certain temperature so that it can melt and flow through the nozzle. This temperature varies depending on the type of filament you use, but it is usually around 200°C for PLA and 230°C for ABS.

However, if your temperature is too low, the filament may not melt enough to flow smoothly. Instead, it may form a thick and sticky paste that accumulates inside the nozzle and prevents more filament from coming out. This can look like a clog, but it is actually a temperature issue.

How can you tell the difference? There are some signs that can help you diagnose the problem:

  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may hear a clicking sound from the extruder as it tries to push the filament through.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may see the filament curling up or forming blobs around the nozzle as it comes out.
  • If your nozzle is clogged, you may need to use a needle or a wire to clear it out.
  • If your temperature is too low, you may need to increase it by 5-10°C and try again.

To prevent this problem from happening in the future, you should always check the recommended temperature for your filament and make sure your printer is calibrated correctly. You should also avoid printing in cold or drafty environments that can affect the temperature of your nozzle.

I hope this blog post was helpful and informative. Happy printing!

If you are a 3D printing enthusiast, you may have encountered the frustrating problem of a clogged nozzle. This can happen when the filament gets stuck or melted inside the nozzle, preventing the extruder from pushing out more material. A clogged nozzle can ruin your print and waste your time and filament.

But what if the problem is not really a clogged nozzle, but something else? I will explain how improper tension on the extruder can masquerade as a clogged nozzle, and how to fix it.

The extruder is the part of the 3D printer that feeds the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and extruded through the nozzle. The extruder has a spring-loaded mechanism that applies pressure on the filament, pushing it against a drive gear or a hobbed bolt. This pressure is called tension, and it is essential for the extruder to work properly.

If the tension is too low, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may slip on the filament, causing under-extrusion or skipping steps. This can result in gaps, holes, or weak layers in your print. If the tension is too high, the drive gear or the hobbed bolt may dig into the filament, causing over-extrusion or grinding. This can result in blobs, strings, or jams in your print.

Both under-extrusion and over-extrusion can look like a clogged nozzle, because they affect the amount and quality of material that comes out of the nozzle. However, a clogged nozzle is usually caused by a different issue, such as a dirty nozzle, a partial blockage, or a heat creep.

So how can you tell if your problem is really a clogged nozzle, or an improper tension on the extruder? Here are some tips:

  • Check your filament. If you see signs of grinding or slipping on the filament, such as flat spots, gouges, or dust, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your extruder. If you hear clicking or popping noises from the extruder, then your tension is likely too high or too low.
  • Check your nozzle. If you see material oozing out of the nozzle when it is not printing, then your tension is likely too high. If you see no material coming out of the nozzle when it is printing, then your tension is likely too low.
  • Do a cold pull. A cold pull is a technique to clean your nozzle by heating it up, inserting a piece of filament, letting it cool down, and then pulling it out with force. If you see a clean tip on the filament after doing a cold pull, then your nozzle is not clogged.
  • Adjust your tension. Depending on your extruder model, you may have a screw, a knob, or a lever to adjust the tension on the filament. You want to find a balance between too much and too little pressure. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the drive gear or the hobbed bolt leaves slight marks on the filament, but not deep enough to damage it.

Sometimes the extruder gear is clicking or skipping. This can affect the quality of your prints and cause under-extrusion, blobs, or gaps in the layers. This can be difficult to diagnose because the root cause is often at the other side of the printer.

The extruder gear is the part that pushes the filament into the hot end, where it is melted and deposited onto the build plate. The extruder gear has teeth that grip the filament and rotate to feed it. Sometimes, the extruder gear can click or skip, meaning that it slips on the filament and fails to push it forward. This can happen for several reasons, such as:

  • The nozzle is too close to the build plate, causing too much back pressure and preventing the filament from flowing out.
  • The nozzle is clogged or partially blocked by dirt, dust, or debris, reducing the flow of filament.
  • The nozzle temperature is too low, making the filament too viscous and hard to extrude.
  • The filament diameter is inconsistent or out of spec, causing variations in the extrusion rate and pressure.
  • The filament is tangled, kinked, or twisted, creating friction and resistance in the feed path.
  • The extruder tension is too high or too low, making the extruder gear either slip on the filament or crush it.

To fix the extruder gear clicking problem, you need to identify the root cause and address it accordingly. Here are some possible solutions:

  • Adjust the nozzle height and level the build plate, making sure there is enough gap between them for the filament to flow out smoothly.
  • Clean the nozzle and check for any clogs or blockages. You can use a needle or a wire to poke through the nozzle hole or perform a cold pull to remove any stuck material.
  • Increase the nozzle temperature slightly and see if it improves the extrusion. You can also try a different filament material or brand that has a lower melting point or better flow characteristics.
  • Measure the filament diameter with a caliper and make sure it is within the tolerance range of your printer. You can also adjust the extrusion multiplier in your slicer software to compensate for any variations in the filament diameter.
  • Check the filament spool and make sure it is not tangled, kinked, or twisted. You can also use a filament guide or a spool holder to reduce any friction or resistance in the feed path.
  • Adjust the extruder tension and make sure it is not too tight or too loose. You can use a screwdriver to turn the tension knob or spring on your extruder assembly. You want to find a balance where the extruder gear grips the filament firmly but not too hard.

One of the common problems that 3D printer users face is under-extrusion, which means that not enough filament is coming out of the nozzle. This can result in poor print quality, gaps, and weak layers. One of the possible causes of under-extrusion is that the filament is not heated up to its melting point, which means that it cannot flow smoothly through the nozzle.

How can you tell if your filament is not hot enough? Here are some signs to look out for:

  • The filament is curling or bending as it comes out of the nozzle, instead of forming a straight line.
  • The filament is making a clicking or grinding noise as it is pushed through the extruder.
  • The filament is brittle and breaks easily when you bend it.
  • The print surface is rough and uneven, with blobs and strings.
  • The print layers are not adhering well to each other, and the print is weak and fragile.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to increase the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by adjusting the settings on your 3D printer’s control panel, or by using a slicer software to set the temperature for each layer. The optimal temperature for your filament depends on the type and brand of filament you are using, as well as the ambient temperature and humidity. You can check the recommended temperature range on the filament spool or on the manufacturer’s website.

However, be careful not to overheat your filament, as this can also cause problems such as clogging, oozing, and burning. You can tell if your filament is too hot if:

  • The filament is dripping or leaking from the nozzle when it is not printing.
  • The filament is bubbling or smoking as it comes out of the nozzle.
  • The filament is discolored or charred.
  • The print surface is glossy and smooth, with no details or texture.
  • The print layers are sagging or warping, and the print is deformed.

If you notice any of these signs, you may need to lower the temperature of your nozzle. You can do this by following the same steps as above, but in reverse.

You can also use a temperature tower test to calibrate your nozzle temperature for different filaments. A temperature tower is a 3D model that prints at different temperatures along its height, so you can compare the results and choose the best one. You can find many temperature tower models online, or create your own using a slicer software.

If you are looking for ways to improve the print quality and speed of your 3D printer, you may want to tune two important settings: pressure advance and input shaping. In this blog post, I will explain what these settings do, how to tune them, and what to consider when choosing the appropriate filament.

Pressure advance is a feature that compensates for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder. When the extruder moves at a constant speed, the filament behaves like a spring and creates a lag between the extruder and the nozzle. This lag causes over-extrusion at the start of a line and under-extrusion at the end of a line. To avoid this, pressure advance adjusts the extruder speed according to the acceleration and deceleration of the print head. This way, the pressure in the nozzle is kept constant and the extrusion is consistent.

Input shaping is a feature that compensates for the vibrations of the printer frame and the print head. When the print head changes direction abruptly, it creates ringing artifacts on the print surface. These artifacts reduce the accuracy and aesthetics of the print. To avoid this, input shaping filters out the frequencies that cause vibrations and smooths out the motion of the print head. This way, the ringing artifacts are minimized and the print quality is improved.

To tune pressure advance and input shaping, you will need to print some test patterns and measure some parameters. There are different methods and tools for doing this, but one of the easiest and most popular ones is to use Klipper firmware and its built-in calibration tools. Klipper is an open-source firmware that runs on a Raspberry Pi and communicates with your printer via USB. It has many advanced features and allows you to fine-tune your printer settings with ease.

To use Klipper, you will need to install it on your Raspberry Pi and flash your printer board with a bootloader. Then, you will need to create a configuration file for your printer and upload it to Klipper. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s website: https://www.klipper3d.org/

Once you have Klipper up and running, you can use its web interface or terminal commands to perform pressure advance and input shaping calibration. You can find detailed instructions on how to do this on Klipper’s documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html and https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html

One thing to consider when tuning pressure advance and input shaping is the type of filament you are using. Different filaments have different properties that affect their elasticity and viscosity. For example, flexible filaments are more elastic than rigid filaments, and high-temperature filaments are more viscous than low-temperature filaments. These factors affect how much pressure advance and input shaping you need to apply. Therefore, you should tune these settings for each filament type you use.

A 3D printer Bowden tube is a flexible tube that connects the extruder to the hot end. It allows the filament to be pushed and pulled by the extruder motor without bending or breaking. However, sometimes the Bowden tube can get clogged and cause printing problems. Here are some possible causes and solutions for a clogged Bowden tube:

  • The filament is too soft or flexible. Some filaments, such as TPU or TPE, are very flexible and can bend inside the Bowden tube, creating friction and resistance. This can prevent the filament from feeding smoothly and cause clogging. To avoid this, use a stiffer filament or a direct drive extruder that eliminates the need for a Bowden tube.
  • The filament diameter is too large or inconsistent. If the filament diameter is larger than the inner diameter of the Bowden tube, it can get stuck or jammed inside the tube. This can also happen if the filament diameter varies along its length, creating bulges or knots. To avoid this, use a high-quality filament that has a consistent diameter and matches the size of your Bowden tube.
  • The Bowden tube is too long or bent. A longer Bowden tube means more friction and resistance for the filament to overcome. This can reduce the extrusion force and cause under-extrusion or clogging. A bent Bowden tube can also create kinks or pinch points that obstruct the filament flow. To avoid this, use a shorter Bowden tube that is as straight as possible and avoid sharp bends or twists.
  • The Bowden tube is worn out or damaged. Over time, the Bowden tube can wear out due to friction, heat, or abrasion from the filament. This can create rough or uneven surfaces inside the tube that can snag or scrape the filament. A damaged Bowden tube can also have cracks or holes that can leak molten filament or allow dust and debris to enter. To avoid this, replace your Bowden tube regularly and inspect it for signs of wear or damage.

Bowden tubes are flexible tubes that connect the extruder and the hot end of a 3D printer. They are used to guide the filament through the printer and prevent it from bending or tangling. Bowden tubes can improve the print quality and speed of a 3D printer, but they can also cause some problems if they are not installed or maintained properly. It doesn’t happen frequently, but when there is a problem with the tube it can cause problems and be difficult to diagnose.

One of the most common issues with Bowden tubes is clogging. Clogging can occur when the filament gets stuck inside the tube due to friction, heat, moisture, or dust. Clogging can affect the extrusion rate and quality of the print, and can also damage the extruder motor or the hot end. To prevent clogging, it is important to use high-quality filament that is compatible with the tube diameter and material. It is also advisable to clean the tube regularly with a cleaning filament or a compressed air blower. Additionally, it is recommended to use a tube cutter or a sharp knife to cut the tube ends at a 90-degree angle, as this will ensure a smooth and tight fit with the fittings.

Another common issue with Bowden tubes is kinking. Kinking can happen when the tube bends too much or too sharply, creating a permanent deformation in the tube wall. Kinking can reduce the inner diameter of the tube and increase the friction and resistance for the filament. This can lead to under-extrusion, stringing, or layer shifting in the print. To prevent kinking, it is important to use a tube that has enough stiffness and flexibility for the printer setup. It is also advisable to avoid bending the tube more than necessary and to secure it with cable ties or clips to prevent it from moving too much during printing.

A third common issue with Bowden tubes is wear and tear. Wear and tear can occur over time due to the constant movement and friction of the filament inside the tube. Wear and tear can cause the tube to lose its shape, smoothness, and elasticity, which can affect its performance and durability. To prevent wear and tear, it is important to replace the tube periodically when it shows signs of degradation, such as cracks, splits, or discoloration. It is also advisable to use a tube that has a high abrasion resistance and a low coefficient of friction, such as PTFE or Capricorn tubes.