Tag: troubleshooting

The speed of the first layer is important because it determines how well the filament sticks to the bed and how smooth the surface of your print will be. However, setting the speed too high can cause some problems that can affect the quality and durability of your print. Today, I will explain what happens if your speed is set too high for the first layer, and how to fix it.

Some symptoms of a too high speed for the first layer are:

  • Poor adhesion: The filament might not stick well to the bed, resulting in warping, curling, or detachment of the print.
  • Rough surface: The filament might not have enough time to melt and spread evenly on the bed, resulting in a rough and uneven surface.
  • Under-extrusion: The filament might not flow fast enough to keep up with the nozzle movement, resulting in gaps or holes in the print.
  • Overheating: The nozzle might get too hot due to the fast movement, resulting in clogging, stringing, or oozing of the filament.

Some ways to remedy a too high speed for the first layer are:

  • Lower the speed: The most obvious solution is to lower the speed of the first layer, either by adjusting the settings in your slicer software or by using the knob on your printer. A good rule of thumb is to set the speed to 50% or less of your normal printing speed for the first layer.
  • Increase the temperature: Another way to improve the adhesion and flow of the filament is to increase the temperature of the nozzle and/or the bed. This will help the filament melt faster and stick better to the bed. However, be careful not to set the temperature too high, as this can cause other problems such as burning or warping of the filament.
  • Level the bed: A properly leveled bed is essential for a good first layer. If your bed is too high or too low, it can affect how well the filament sticks to it and how smooth the surface will be. You can use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to check the distance between the nozzle and the bed at different points, and adjust it accordingly.
  • Calibrate the extruder: Another factor that can affect the speed of the first layer is how much filament is extruded by your printer. If your extruder is under-extruding or over-extruding, it can cause gaps or blobs in your print. You can calibrate your extruder by measuring how much filament is fed by your printer when you command it to extrude a certain length, and adjusting the steps per millimeter (E-steps) value in your firmware or slicer software.

Supports are tricky. You must create a fine balance. Too much support and your supports are difficult to remove and leave ugly marks. Too little support and everything falls apart. Today, I wanted to go over a few things that I consider when setting a print up that needs supports.

First, you need to decide whether you need supports or not. Cura has a handy feature that shows you the areas of your model that need supports in red. To enable this feature, go to the Preview tab and click on the eye icon on the top right corner. Then, select Show Overhangs from the drop-down menu. You will see the overhangs highlighted in red on your model.

If you see a lot of red areas, you might want to enable supports. To do this, go to the Prepare tab and click on the Support icon on the left sidebar. You will see several options for supports, such as Support Placement, Support Overhang Angle, Support Density, and more. Here are some tips for choosing the right settings:

  • Support Placement: This option lets you choose where to place the supports. You can choose Everywhere, which means the supports will touch both the build plate and the model, or Touching Build Plate, which means the supports will only touch the build plate and not the model.
  • Support Overhang Angle: This option lets you choose the minimum angle for an overhang to be supported. The default value is 50 degrees, which means any overhang that is less than 50 degrees from horizontal will be supported. You can increase or decrease this value depending on your model and your printer’s capabilities. A lower value will create more supports, which can improve print quality but also increase print time and material usage. A higher value will create fewer supports, which can save time and material but also risk print failure or poor quality.
  • Support Density: This option lets you choose how dense the supports are. The default value is 15%, which means 15% of the support area will be filled with material. You can increase or decrease this value depending on your model and your preferences. A higher value will create stronger and sturdier supports, which can help with complex or heavy models, but also increase print time and material usage. A lower value will create weaker and sparser supports, which can save time and material but also risk breaking or collapsing during printing or removal.
  • Support Interface: This option lets you choose whether to add an extra layer between the supports and the model. This layer can improve print quality by reducing marks or scars on the model surface caused by the supports. To enable this option, check the Generate Support Interface box. You will see two sub-options: Support Roof and Support Floor. The roof is the layer that touches the model from above, and the floor is the layer that touches the model from below. You can adjust the thickness and density of these layers according to your needs.

I was printing last night and my temperature readout looked erratic like a heartbeat. I stopped the print and started to investigate. When I did, the wire for the thermister came off in my hand, indicating that the loose wire is probably what was causing the issue.

Short post today, but keep up with the maintenance on your 3d printer.

Your thermistor may not be reading correctly.

What is a thermistor and why is it important? A thermistor is a type of resistor that changes its resistance according to the temperature. It is used to measure the temperature of the hotend and the heated bed, which are important for maintaining the optimal printing conditions. If the thermistor is not working properly, it can cause inaccurate temperature readings, which can lead to poor print quality, filament jams, or even damage to the printer.

How can a thermistor degrade over time?

  • Mechanical stress: The thermistor is attached to the hotend or the heated bed with a wire, which can bend or break due to repeated movements or vibrations.
  • Thermal stress: The thermistor is exposed to high temperatures, which can cause it to expand and contract, resulting in cracks or fractures.
  • Environmental stress: The thermistor can be affected by dust, moisture, corrosion, or oxidation, which can alter its resistance or damage its coating.

How can you tell if your thermistor is degrading? There are some signs that can indicate that your thermistor is not functioning well, such as:

  • Inconsistent or fluctuating temperature readings: If your thermistor is losing its accuracy, you may notice that the temperature displayed on your printer’s screen or software is not stable or does not match the actual temperature of the hotend or the heated bed.
  • Erratic or failed prints: If your thermistor is giving wrong temperature readings, you may experience problems with your prints, such as under-extrusion, over-extrusion, stringing, warping, or layer separation.
  • Error messages or warnings: If your thermistor is broken or disconnected, you may see error messages or warnings on your printer’s screen or software, such as “Thermistor open”, “Thermistor short”, “MAXTEMP”, or “MINTEMP”.

How can you prevent or fix a degrading thermistor? There are some steps that you can take to prolong the life of your thermistor and avoid potential issues, such as:

  • Check and clean your thermistor regularly: You should inspect your thermistor for any signs of damage or wear and tear, and clean it with a soft cloth or a cotton swab if it is dirty or dusty.
  • Replace your thermistor if needed: If your thermistor is showing signs of degradation or malfunction, you should replace it with a new one as soon as possible. You can find compatible thermistors online or at your local 3D printing store. Make sure to follow the instructions on how to install and calibrate your new thermistor correctly.
  • Upgrade your thermistor if possible: If you want to improve the performance and reliability of your thermistor, you can consider upgrading it to a more durable and accurate type, such as a PT100 or a thermocouple. These types of thermistors can withstand higher temperatures and are less prone to degradation. However, they may require additional hardware or firmware modifications to work with your printer.

If you own a 3D printer, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: the bed level undoing itself. This can result in poor print quality, wasted filament, and even damage to your printer.

One possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is thermal expansion. As the printer heats up, the metal parts expand and contract, which can affect the alignment of the bed and the nozzle. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is in a stable environment, with minimal temperature fluctuations. Bring your bed to the proper temperature and let it heatsoak for a few minutes.

There are screws that go through the center of the bedsprings with nuts at the end of them. Check the screws and springs that hold the bed in place, and tighten them if they are loose.

Another possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is vibration. As the printer moves, it can generate vibrations that can loosen the screws and springs that hold the bed in place. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is on a solid and level surface, and that it is not exposed to external sources of vibration, such as fans or speakers. You should also check the belts and pulleys that drive the printer’s motion, and adjust them if they are too loose or too tight.

A third possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is wear and tear. Over time, the parts of your printer can wear out or break, which can affect the bed level. For example, the springs that hold the bed in place can lose their tension, or the bearings that guide the motion of the printer can wear out. To prevent this, you should regularly inspect your printer for signs of damage or wear, and replace any parts that are faulty or worn out.

A simple solution that many people opt for is to change out their springs for better quality springs or silicone spacers. They are relatively inexpensive and provide much better support than most factory installed springs.

One last thing to check is the z axis limit switch(es). If the machine homes too high above the build plate, there may not be enough tension on the springs to keep it in place properly. Resetting the limit switch(es) can help by applying tension on the springs and stabilizing the bed height.

Working with flexible filament, such as TPU, is challenging.

One of the main challenges of working with TPU filament is its high elasticity and low rigidity. This means that TPU filament can stretch and bend easily, which can cause problems with extrusion, retraction, and feeding. It can be similar to trying to push rope. It is advisable to reduce the retraction distance and speed, as well as the print speed, to prevent stringing and oozing.

Another challenge of working with TPU filament is its sensitivity to temperature and humidity. TPU filament can absorb moisture from the air, which can affect its print quality and performance. Moisture can cause bubbles, cracks, and warping in the printed objects, as well as increase the risk of nozzle clogging. To prevent these problems, it is essential to store TPU filament in a dry and cool place, preferably in a sealed bag with desiccants. Moreover, it is recommended to use a heated bed and an enclosed print chamber to maintain a stable temperature and avoid drafts.

A third challenge of working with TPU filament is its adhesion to the print surface. TPU filament can stick very well to some surfaces, such as glass or PEI, but not so well to others, such as blue tape or BuildTak. This can result in either poor bed adhesion or difficulty in removing the printed objects. To solve this dilemma, it is helpful to use a thin layer of glue stick or hairspray on the print surface to improve the adhesion. Alternatively, it is possible to use a flexible or magnetic build plate that can be easily detached and bent to release the printed objects.

One final challenge that I’ve experienced is that some TPU (or filaments with TPU in them) tend to expand when heated up. I normally like to warm up my machine for a few minutes before beginning a print. This allows for any expansion and movement to happen while the machine is sitting idle, rather than while the machine is printing. However, I’ve found that some TPU based filaments will burn and end up leaving burnt pieces in the nozzle, which end up clogging it. For TPU based filaments, I prefer to retract the filament approximately 100mm, then warm up the nozzle, and include a line of code in the beginning of my file that feeds the filament back into the nozzle. For this same reason, I also like to do a cold pull after each part that I print with TPU based filament. I just cut off the last 25mm or so of the filament. I have far fewer issues that way.

These are some of the challenges of working with TPU filament that I have encountered and how I have overcome them. I hope this information was useful for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them below. Happy printing!

Z wobble is a common problem in 3D printing that causes the printed layers to shift or wobble along the Z-axis, resulting in a distorted or uneven surface. Z wobble can be caused by various factors, such as loose screws, bent rods, misaligned couplers, or poor quality lead screws. To fix Z wobble, you need to identify the source of the problem and make sure that all the components of the Z-axis are properly aligned, tightened, and lubricated. Here are some steps you can take to reduce or eliminate Z wobble:

  • Check the screws that hold the Z-axis rods and lead screws in place. Make sure they are not too loose or too tight. You can use a hex wrench to adjust them if needed.
  • Check the rods and lead screws for any bends or damage. If they are bent, you can try to straighten them using a hammer or a vise. If they are damaged, you may need to replace them with new ones.
  • Check the couplers that connect the lead screws to the stepper motors. Make sure they are not cracked or worn out. You can use a screwdriver to tighten them if needed.
  • Check the alignment of the Z-axis rods and lead screws. They should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the X-axis and Y-axis. You can use a ruler or a level to measure the angles and distances between them.
  • Lubricate the rods and lead screws with a suitable grease or oil. This will reduce the friction and noise and improve the smoothness of the Z-axis movement.

If you are using silk PLA, you might have encountered a common problem: the extruder gear grinds a flat spot on your filament when you have retraction enabled. This can cause under-extrusion, clogging, and poor print quality. But if you disable retraction, you might get stringing and oozing. So how can you overcome this dilemma? Here are some tips that might help you.

  • Increase the extruder temperature. Silk PLA usually requires a higher temperature than regular PLA, around 210-230°C. This will reduce the resistance in the hot end and allow the filament to flow more easily.
  • I have also had success with reducing the extruder temperature to the very minimum temperature. When reducing the temperature the flow of PLA is slower, so a slower speed is also required to accommodate the lower temperature. This option allows me to disable retraction altogether.
  • Decrease the retraction distance and speed. Retraction pulls the filament back into the extruder to prevent oozing, but it also puts more stress on the filament. Try reducing the retraction distance to 2-3 mm and the speed to 20-30 mm/s. This will minimize the grinding and still prevent stringing.
  • Calibrate the extruder tension. The extruder tension is the force that the extruder gear applies on the filament to push it through the nozzle. If the tension is too high, it can cause grinding and flattening of the filament. If it is too low, it can cause slipping and under-extrusion. You can adjust the tension by turning a screw or a knob on your extruder. The ideal tension is when you can pull the filament out of the extruder with moderate force, but not too easily or too hard.
  • Use a high-quality filament. Silk PLA is a special type of PLA that has a shiny and smooth surface. However, not all silk PLA filaments are created equal. Some might have inconsistent diameter, impurities, or additives that can affect the print quality and performance. Make sure you buy from a reputable brand and store your filament in a dry and cool place.

Your first layer in 3d printing is everything. It’s the layer that ties your print to the bed…or not. If you don’t get your first layer down right then there’s a good chance your print will not be successful. So what should you be looking for in a first layer?

To achieve a perfect first layer, you need to consider three main aspects: bed surface preparation, bed leveling, and calibration.

Bed surface preparation involves cleaning and preparing the bed for maximum adhesion with your chosen filament.

Bed leveling involves adjusting the distance between the nozzle and the bed so that it is consistent across the entire print area. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, it will squish the filament too much and create a rough and thin first layer. If the nozzle is too far from the bed, it will extrude too much filament and create a loose and uneven first layer. You can level your bed manually by using a piece of paper or a feeler gauge as a spacer between the nozzle and the bed, and turning the knobs or screws on each corner of the bed until you feel a slight resistance. Alternatively, you can use an automatic bed leveling sensor or probe that measures the distance between the nozzle and the bed at multiple points and compensates for any irregularities.

Calibration involves fine-tuning your settings such as first layer height, first layer speed, first layer temperature, and first layer line width to optimize your first layer quality. These settings can vary depending on your printer model, filament type, and personal preference, but here are some general guidelines:

  • First layer height: A lower first layer height (such as 50% or 75%) can improve adhesion and smoothness, but it may also increase the risk of clogging or over-extrusion. A higher first layer height (such as 100% or 125%) can reduce print time and material usage, but it may also decrease adhesion and accuracy.
  • First layer speed: A lower first layer speed (such as 25% or 50%) can improve adhesion and accuracy, but it may also increase print time and stringing. A higher first layer speed (such as 75% or 100%) can reduce print time and stringing, but it may also decrease adhesion and quality.
  • First layer temperature: A higher first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C above your normal print temperature) can improve adhesion and flow, but it may also increase warping and oozing. A lower first layer temperature (such as 5°C or 10°C below your normal print temperature) can reduce warping and oozing, but it may also decrease adhesion and flow.
  • First layer line width: A higher first layer line width (such as 120% or 150%) can improve adhesion and coverage, but it may also increase the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot. A lower first layer line width (such as 80% or 100%) can reduce the risk of over-extrusion or elephant foot, but it may also decrease adhesion and coverage.

If you have ever experienced a clogged nozzle or a jammed extruder on your 3D printer, you know how frustrating it can be. One of the possible causes of this problem is burnt filament stuck in the heatbreak, the thin metal tube that connects the hotend and the cold end of the extruder.

The first thing you need to do is to remove the nozzle from the hotend. You can do this by heating up the nozzle to about 200°C and using a wrench to unscrew it.

Next, you need to remove the heatbreak from the cold end. Depending on your extruder design, you may need to unscrew some screws or bolts, or loosen some clamps or springs. You can also mark the orientation of the heatbreak before removing it, so you can reassemble it correctly later.

Now, you have the heatbreak in your hand. You can inspect it and see if there is any burnt filament inside. Burnt filament usually looks dark brown or black, and may have a charred smell. If you see any signs of burnt filament, you need to clear it out.

There are two main methods to clear burnt filament out of a heatbreak: using heat or using mechanical force. Using heat means heating up the heatbreak and melting the burnt filament out. Using mechanical force means pushing or pulling the burnt filament out with a tool.

Using heat is easier and safer, but it may take longer and require more equipment. You can use a heat gun, a soldering iron, a blowtorch, or even your hotend to heat up the heatbreak. You need to heat it up to a temperature higher than the melting point of the filament, but lower than the melting point of the metal. For example, if you are using PLA filament, you can heat it up to about 220°C, but not higher than 660°C, which is the melting point of aluminum.

Once the heatbreak is hot enough, you can use a pair of tweezers or pliers to hold it and gently tap it on a hard surface, such as a metal plate or a ceramic tile. This will cause the melted filament to drip out of the heatbreak. You can also use a thin wire or a needle to poke through the heatbreak and push out any remaining filament. Be careful not to scratch or bend the heatbreak.

Using mechanical force is faster and simpler, but it may be more risky and less effective. You can use a drill bit, a hex key, a screwdriver, or any other tool that fits inside the heatbreak. You need to insert the tool into the heatbreak and twist it or push it until the burnt filament comes out. You can also use a hammer or a vise to apply more force if needed. Be careful not to break or deform the heatbreak.

After clearing out the burnt filament, you need to clean the heatbreak thoroughly. You can use some acetone, alcohol, or water to wipe off any residue or dust. You can also use some compressed air or a vacuum cleaner to blow out any particles. Make sure the heatbreak is dry and shiny before reassembling it.

Finally, you need to reassemble the extruder and reinstall the nozzle.