Tag: configuration

Your thermistor may not be reading correctly.

What is a thermistor and why is it important? A thermistor is a type of resistor that changes its resistance according to the temperature. It is used to measure the temperature of the hotend and the heated bed, which are important for maintaining the optimal printing conditions. If the thermistor is not working properly, it can cause inaccurate temperature readings, which can lead to poor print quality, filament jams, or even damage to the printer.

How can a thermistor degrade over time?

  • Mechanical stress: The thermistor is attached to the hotend or the heated bed with a wire, which can bend or break due to repeated movements or vibrations.
  • Thermal stress: The thermistor is exposed to high temperatures, which can cause it to expand and contract, resulting in cracks or fractures.
  • Environmental stress: The thermistor can be affected by dust, moisture, corrosion, or oxidation, which can alter its resistance or damage its coating.

How can you tell if your thermistor is degrading? There are some signs that can indicate that your thermistor is not functioning well, such as:

  • Inconsistent or fluctuating temperature readings: If your thermistor is losing its accuracy, you may notice that the temperature displayed on your printer’s screen or software is not stable or does not match the actual temperature of the hotend or the heated bed.
  • Erratic or failed prints: If your thermistor is giving wrong temperature readings, you may experience problems with your prints, such as under-extrusion, over-extrusion, stringing, warping, or layer separation.
  • Error messages or warnings: If your thermistor is broken or disconnected, you may see error messages or warnings on your printer’s screen or software, such as “Thermistor open”, “Thermistor short”, “MAXTEMP”, or “MINTEMP”.

How can you prevent or fix a degrading thermistor? There are some steps that you can take to prolong the life of your thermistor and avoid potential issues, such as:

  • Check and clean your thermistor regularly: You should inspect your thermistor for any signs of damage or wear and tear, and clean it with a soft cloth or a cotton swab if it is dirty or dusty.
  • Replace your thermistor if needed: If your thermistor is showing signs of degradation or malfunction, you should replace it with a new one as soon as possible. You can find compatible thermistors online or at your local 3D printing store. Make sure to follow the instructions on how to install and calibrate your new thermistor correctly.
  • Upgrade your thermistor if possible: If you want to improve the performance and reliability of your thermistor, you can consider upgrading it to a more durable and accurate type, such as a PT100 or a thermocouple. These types of thermistors can withstand higher temperatures and are less prone to degradation. However, they may require additional hardware or firmware modifications to work with your printer.

If you are looking for a way to improve the quality of your top layers in 3D printing, you might want to try using monotonic top layers. Monotonic top layers are a type of pattern that ensures that the extrusion lines are always printed in the same direction, without crossing each other in the same layer.

This creates a smoother and more consistent surface, as the light reflects off the model in a uniform way. Monotonic top layers can also reduce the amount of material and time needed to print, as they avoid unnecessary travel moves and retractions.

Monotonic top layers are available in some slicers, such as PrusaSlicer, Orca, and Cura. To enable them, you need to select the monotonic top/bottom order option in the infill settings. You can also choose the direction of the extrusion lines, such as horizontal, vertical, diagonal or aligned with the model.

Monotonic top layers work best with thin layer heights and low infill densities, as they provide enough support for the top surface without creating gaps or bumps. You can also combine them with other features, such as ironing or adaptive cubic infill, to further enhance the appearance and strength of your top layers.

If you own a 3D printer, you may have encountered a frustrating problem: the bed level undoing itself. This can result in poor print quality, wasted filament, and even damage to your printer.

One possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is thermal expansion. As the printer heats up, the metal parts expand and contract, which can affect the alignment of the bed and the nozzle. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is in a stable environment, with minimal temperature fluctuations. Bring your bed to the proper temperature and let it heatsoak for a few minutes.

There are screws that go through the center of the bedsprings with nuts at the end of them. Check the screws and springs that hold the bed in place, and tighten them if they are loose.

Another possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is vibration. As the printer moves, it can generate vibrations that can loosen the screws and springs that hold the bed in place. To prevent this, you should make sure that your printer is on a solid and level surface, and that it is not exposed to external sources of vibration, such as fans or speakers. You should also check the belts and pulleys that drive the printer’s motion, and adjust them if they are too loose or too tight.

A third possible cause of the bed level undoing itself is wear and tear. Over time, the parts of your printer can wear out or break, which can affect the bed level. For example, the springs that hold the bed in place can lose their tension, or the bearings that guide the motion of the printer can wear out. To prevent this, you should regularly inspect your printer for signs of damage or wear, and replace any parts that are faulty or worn out.

A simple solution that many people opt for is to change out their springs for better quality springs or silicone spacers. They are relatively inexpensive and provide much better support than most factory installed springs.

One last thing to check is the z axis limit switch(es). If the machine homes too high above the build plate, there may not be enough tension on the springs to keep it in place properly. Resetting the limit switch(es) can help by applying tension on the springs and stabilizing the bed height.

One of the most important parameters to adjust when slicing a 3D model for printing is the layer height or step height. This is the thickness of each layer that the printer will deposit on top of the previous one, and it affects the quality, speed and strength of the print. I would like to discuss some of the things to consider when setting a step height in a 3D printer slicer.

The first thing to consider is the resolution and detail of your model. If you want to preserve fine details and smooth curves, you will need to use a lower layer height, as this will reduce the visible stair-stepping effect that occurs when printing curved surfaces. However, if your model is simple or has large flat areas, you can use a higher layer height, as this will not affect the appearance much.

The second thing to consider is the printing time and cost. The lower the layer height, the more layers you will need to print, and the longer it will take to finish the print. This also means that your printer will be unavailable for longer. No big deal if you are a hobbyist, but if you have a hourly price associated with your printer it can really increase the cost of your prints. On the other hand, the higher the layer height, the fewer layers you will need to print, and the faster it will finish.

The third thing to consider is the strength and durability of your print. The lower the layer height, the better the adhesion between layers, and the stronger your print will be. This is especially important if you are printing functional parts that need to withstand stress or impact. However, if you are printing decorative or non-functional parts, you can use a higher layer height, as this will not affect the strength much.

There is no single optimal layer height for every print. You will need to balance these factors and choose a layer height that suits your needs and preferences. A good rule of thumb is to start with a layer height that is half of your nozzle diameter, and adjust it up or down depending on your model and desired outcome.

Also, consider “magic numbers.” For most hobbyist FDM printers ideal step heights are in increments of 0.04mm.

I’ve been printing with FDM printers for a while now, but only recently started printing with resin. In FDM printing orientation of the part is important, but with resin it’s a big deal. It got me thinking, maybe orientation is more important to FDM printing than I realized. Here are a few things to consider.

The first thing to consider is the overhang angle of your model. This is the angle between the horizontal plane and the surface of your model. If the overhang angle is too steep, the printer will have trouble depositing material on thin air, and you will need to add support structures to prevent sagging or collapsing. Support structures can be useful, but they also have some drawbacks: they use more material, increase printing time, and leave marks on the surface of your model that need to be removed.

The second thing to consider is the layer direction of your model. This is the direction in which the printer lays down each layer of material. The layer direction affects the strength and appearance of your model. Generally speaking, 3D printed parts are stronger along the layer direction than across it, because there is less bonding between layers than within them. This means that you should orient your model in such a way that the layer direction aligns with the main stress direction of your part. For example, if you are printing a hook, you should orient it vertically so that the layers are parallel to the force applied by the weight hanging from it.

The third thing to consider is the surface quality of your model. This is how smooth and detailed your model looks after printing. The surface quality depends on several factors, such as the nozzle size, layer height, print speed, and infill percentage. However, it also depends on the orientation of your model on the build plate. Generally speaking, 3D printed parts have better surface quality on the top and bottom faces than on the sides, because these faces are printed flat on the build plate or in mid-air, without any interference from support structures or adjacent layers.

Of course, these three factors are not independent from each other, and sometimes you will have to compromise between them. For example, if you want to print a sphere, you will have to choose between having a smooth top and bottom face with lots of support structures on the sides, or having a smooth side face with a rough top and bottom face. There is no one-size-fits-all solution for every model, and you will have to experiment with different orientations to find the best one for your specific case.

Onshape is a cloud-based CAD platform that offers many advantages over traditional desktop-based software. I would like to compare and contrast a couple of CAD packages.

SolidWorks is one of the most popular and widely used CAD software in the industry. It has a rich set of features and tools for designing, simulating, and manufacturing complex products. However, SolidWorks also has some drawbacks, such as:

  • It requires a powerful computer and a large storage space to run smoothly.
  • It is expensive and requires a yearly subscription or a perpetual license.
  • It is not compatible with all operating systems and devices.
  • It does not support real-time collaboration and version control.

Onshape, on the other hand, is accessible from any device with a web browser and an internet connection. It also has a lower cost and a flexible pricing model. Onshape allows multiple users to work on the same project simultaneously and track changes with built-in version control. Some of the benefits of Onshape are:

  • It is fast and reliable, as it runs on the cloud and does not depend on the user’s hardware.
  • It is easy to use and learn, as it has a user-friendly interface and intuitive tools
  • It is integrated with many other cloud-based applications and services.

Fusion 360 is another cloud-based CAD platform that competes with Onshape. It also offers a comprehensive set of features and tools for designing, simulating, and manufacturing products. Fusion 360 has some advantages over Onshape, such as:

  • It has more advanced simulation and analysis capabilities, such as finite element analysis, thermal analysis, and motion studies.
  • It has more options for exporting and importing files, such as STL, STEP, IGES, and DWG.
  • It has more support for offline work, as it allows users to download and edit files locally.

However, Fusion 360 also has some disadvantages compared to Onshape, such as:

  • It requires installation and updates on the user’s device, which can take time and space.
  • It has a steeper learning curve and a more complex interface than Onshape.
  • It has less collaboration features than Onshape, such as commenting, sharing, and branching.

SketchUp is a different type of CAD software than Onshape. It is mainly used for creating 3D models of buildings and interiors. Some of the pros of SketchUp are:

  • It is ideal for conceptual design and visualization, as it allows users to quickly sketch out their ideas in 3D.
  • It has a wide range of extensions and plugins that enhance its functionality and compatibility.
  • It has a free version that can be used for personal projects.

However, SketchUp also has some limitations compared to Onshape, such as:

  • It is not suitable for detailed design and engineering, as it lacks precision and accuracy.
  • It is not optimized for complex geometries and assemblies, as it can cause performance issues and errors.
  • It is not integrated with any cloud-based services or applications.

Ultimately, the choice of CAD software depends on the user’s preferences, requirements, and budget.

Something that doesn’t come up often in conversation, but is important nevertheless, is electricity. 3d printer run on electricity and it does you no good to run one on an overloaded circuit.

First of all, you need to know how much power your 3D printer consumes. This depends on the model, the size, the features, and the settings of your printer. You can usually find this information on the specifications sheet or the user manual of your printer. Alternatively, you can use a power meter to measure the actual power consumption of your printer.

The power consumption of a 3D printer is usually expressed in watts (W) or kilowatts (kW). For example, a typical desktop 3D printer might consume around 200 W, while a larger industrial 3D printer might consume up to 5 kW. To convert watts to kilowatts, you simply divide by 1000. For example, 200 W / 1000 = 0.2 kW.

Next, you need to know how much current your 3D printer draws from the electrical outlet. This depends on the voltage and the power consumption of your printer. You can use this formula to calculate the current:

Current (in amps) = Power (in watts) / Voltage (in volts)

For example, if your 3D printer consumes 200 W and the voltage in your country is 120 V, then the current is:

Current = 200 W / 120 V = 1.67 amps

You also need to know the maximum current rating of your circuit breaker. This is the maximum amount of current that your circuit breaker can handle before it trips and cuts off the power. You can usually find this information on the label or the panel of your circuit breaker. The common ratings are 15 amps, 20 amps, or 30 amps.

To avoid tripping your circuit breaker, you need to make sure that the total current draw of all the devices connected to the same circuit does not exceed the maximum current rating of your circuit breaker. For example, if your circuit breaker is rated at 15 amps and you have a 3D printer that draws 1.67 amps, a laptop that draws 0.5 amps, and a lamp that draws 0.1 amps, then the total current draw is:

Total current = 1.67 amps + 0.5 amps + 0.1 amps = 2.27 amps

This is well below the maximum current rating of your circuit breaker, so you should not have any problems.

However, if you have a larger 3D printer that consumes 5 kW and draws 41.67 amps at 120 V, then you will definitely need a dedicated circuit with a higher-rated circuit breaker (such as a 50-amp breaker) to run it safely.

Some other tips to avoid electrical problems are:

  • Use a surge protector or an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) to protect your 3D printer from power surges or outages.
  • Use high-quality extension cords or power strips that can handle the current draw of your 3D printer.
  • Avoid using multiple adapters or splitters that can overload your outlet or create fire hazards.

I know that’s a lot of math, the TLDR version of this is that most hobby printers can safely be run on a 20 amp circuit. It’s still probably in your best interest to run the calculation, though.

Stock firmware isn’t always the most up to date or optimized. However, it is “safe” in the sense that it has (typically) been thoroughly tested and there won’t be any big surprises. A question that I see come up from time to time is whether people should upgrade their firmware or not. Firmware is the software that controls the hardware of your printer, and it can affect its performance, reliability and functionality.

Pros of upgrading your 3D printer firmware:

  • You can access new features and improvements that the manufacturer or the community has developed, such as better calibration, faster printing, more accurate temperature control, etc.
  • You can fix bugs and errors that may cause your printer to malfunction, crash or produce poor quality prints.
  • You can enhance the security and safety of your printer, by preventing unauthorized access, protecting your data and avoiding potential fire hazards.

Cons of upgrading your 3D printer firmware:

  • You may lose some functionality or compatibility that you were used to, such as support for certain file formats, slicers or accessories.
  • You may encounter new bugs or errors that were not present in the previous version, or that are specific to your printer model or configuration.
  • You may void the warranty of your printer, if the manufacturer does not approve of the firmware update or if you use a third-party firmware.

How to upgrade your 3D printer firmware:

Before you decide to upgrade your 3D printer firmware, you should do some research and preparation. Here are some steps to follow:

  • Check the official website of your printer manufacturer or the firmware developer, and see if there is a new version available for your printer model. Read the release notes and the user reviews, and see what changes and benefits it offers.
  • Backup your current firmware and settings, in case you need to revert back to them later. You can usually do this by connecting your printer to a computer via USB and using a software tool such as Cura or Pronterface.
  • Download the new firmware file and follow the instructions on how to install it on your printer. This may vary depending on the type of printer and firmware you have, but it usually involves copying the file to an SD card and inserting it into your printer, or uploading it via USB or Wi-Fi.
  • Test your printer after the firmware update, and see if everything works as expected. If not, you may need to adjust some settings, calibrate your printer again, or contact the support team for help.

If you have a 3D printer, you might want to control it remotely from your computer or smartphone. This can be useful for monitoring the printing process, adjusting the settings, or stopping the print if something goes wrong. I would like to show you different ways to control your 3D printer remotely, depending on your budget and preferences.

The simplest way to control your 3D printer remotely is to use a USB cable and connect it to your computer. You can use software like Cura or Repetier-Host to send commands and view the status of your printer. However, this method has some limitations. You need to keep your computer on and close to your printer, and you can’t access it from another device or location.

A better way to control your 3D printer remotely is to use a Raspberry Pi (or clone), a small and affordable computer that can run Linux. You can install software like OctoPrint or AstroPrint on your Raspberry Pi and connect it to your printer via USB. Then, you can access your printer from any device that has a web browser, such as your laptop, tablet, or smartphone. You can also use a webcam to watch the print live, or use plugins to add more features, such as notifications, timelapses, or cloud storage.

Another way to control your 3D printer remotely is to use a dedicated device that connects to your printer via Wi-Fi or Bluetooth. There are several products on the market that offer this functionality, such as 3DPrinterOS, Printoid, or Polar Cloud. These devices allow you to control your printer from anywhere in the world, as long as you have an internet connection. You can also share your printer with other users, manage multiple printers, or access online libraries of models.

TPU is a flexible filament that can produce amazing prints, but it also requires some special settings and adjustments to print well. One of the most important factors is the tension of the extruder, which affects how well the filament is fed into the hotend and how much pressure is applied to it.

The tension knob is a small screw or dial that controls how tight or loose the spring that presses the idler bearing against the filament is. If the tension is too high, the filament can get crushed or deformed by the idler, causing jams, underextrusion, or poor quality prints. If the tension is too low, the filament can slip or skip in the extruder, causing overextrusion, stringing, or blobs.

To adjust the tension knob properly for TPU, you need to find a balance between enough grip and enough flexibility. Here are some steps to follow:

  1. Load the TPU filament into the extruder and preheat the hotend to the recommended temperature for your brand of TPU.
  2. Start with a low tension setting, such as turning the knob counterclockwise until it stops or loosening the screw until it is barely touching the spring.
  3. Print a test cube or a calibration pattern and observe how the filament behaves in the extruder. Look for signs of slipping, skipping, or grinding.
  4. If you notice any of these problems, increase the tension slightly by turning the knob clockwise or tightening the screw a bit. Repeat step 3 until you find a setting that eliminates these issues.
  5. Check the quality of your print and look for signs of overextrusion, underextrusion, stringing, or blobs. Adjust the tension accordingly until you get a smooth and consistent extrusion.
  6. Remember that different brands and colors of TPU may require different tension settings, so you may need to tweak them for each spool you use.